Torque Converter Operation

The torque converter is one of the least understood components in an automatic transmission equipped vehicle. I will attempt to explain what it does and how it does it. The torque converter has a few different functions. We first need to understand that there is no direct link between the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft (except in the case of a lock up style converter, but we'll talk about that later). This means that the first function of the converter is to connect the crankshaft and the input shaft so the engine can move the vehicle; this is accomplished through the utilization of a fluidic coupling effect. The torque converter also replaces the clutch that is required in a manual transmission; this is how an automatic transmission vehicle can come to a stop while still being in gear without stalling the engine. The torque converter also acts as a torque multiplier, or extra gear ratio, to help the car get moving from a stop. In modern day converters this theoretical ratio is anywhere between 2:1 and 3:1. Torque converters consist of 4 major components that we need to concern ourselves with for the purpose of explanation. The first component, which is the driving member, is called the impeller or "pump". It is connected directly to the inside of the converter housing and because the converter is bolted to the flexplate, it is turning anytime that the engine rotates. The next component, which is the output or driven member, is called the turbine. The transmission's input shaft is splined to it. The turbine is not physically connected to the to the converter housing and can rotate completely independently of it. The third component is the stator assembly; its function is to redirect the flow of fluid between the impeller and the turbine, which gives the torque multiplication effect from a standstill. The final component is the lock up clutch. At highway speeds this clutch can be applied and will provide a direct mechanical link between the crankshaft and input shaft, which will result in 100% efficiency between the engine and transmission. The application of this clutch is usually controlled by the vehicle's computer activating a solenoid in the transmission. Here's how it all works. For the sake of simplicity, I will use the common analogy of two fans which represent the impeller and the turbine. Let's say that we have two fans facing each other and we turn only one of them on- the other fan will soon begin to move. The first fan, which is powered, can be thought of as the impeller that is connected to the converter housing. The second fan- the "driven" fan can be likened to the turbine, which has the input shaft splined to it. If you were to hold the non-powered fan (the turbine) the powered one (the impeller) would still be able to move- this explains how you can pull to a stop without the engine stalling. Now imagine a third component placed in between the two, which would serve to alter the airflow and cause the powered fan to be able to drive the non-powered fan with a reduction of speed- but also with an increase of force (torque). This is essentially what the stator does. At a certain point (usually around 30-40 mph), the same speed can be reached between impeller and the turbine (our two fans). The stator, which is attached to a one way clutch, will now begin to turn in conjunction with the other two components and around 90% efficiency between the crank and the input shaft can be achieved. The remaining 10% slippage between the engine and transmission can be eliminated by connecting the input shaft to the crankshaft through the application of the lock up clutch that was mentioned before. This will tend to lug the engine, so the computer will only command this in higher gears and at highway speeds when there is very little engine load present. The main function of this clutch is to increase fuel efficiency and reduce the amount of heat that is generated by the torque converter. Another term that may be unfamiliar is that of a "high stall" torque converter. A high stall converter differs from a stock converter in the sense that the rpm is raised at which the internal converter components- the impeller, the stator and the turbine start to turn together, and hence, stop the torque multiplication phase and begin the coupling phase. The point at which engine rpm will stop climbing with the drive wheels held stationary and the throttle fully opened is referred to as "stall speed". The idea behind a higher stall torque converter is to allow the engine to rev more freely up to the point where the powerband begins, and therefore, enable the vehicle to accelerate from a stop under more power. This becomes increasingly important when an engine is modified. Engine modifications such as ported heads, bigger cams, bigger turbos (in some cases), bigger intakes, etc. tend to raise the point where the powerband begins. For best performance, the stall speed needs to be raised accordingly to work optimally in conjunction with the given vehicle alterations. In simple terms, for best performance, the stall speed should be raised at least to the point where the torque curve is heading towards its peak. As a rule of thumb, the stall speed should be set to match the rpm at which the engine is making at least 80% of its peak torque for a street driven vehicle. As you can imagine, a vehicle that can accelerate from a stop with 80% of its peak torque will easily outperform an otherwise identical vehicle that can only launch at 50% of its available torque. For a performance or "high stall" torque converter to produce maximum gains, it needs to be configured to the specific vehicle in which it will be installed. Factors such as engine torque and the rpm at which it is greatest, differential gear ratio, vehicle weight, camshaft design, compression ratio, type of induction- forced or naturally aspirated, and a host of other variables all need to be taken into consideration. Be aware that the "off the shelf" type performance torque converters sold by some manufacturers are very unlikely to be optimized for all vehicles and their unique requirements.

Read More

Tips For Keeping Up With Automotive Recalls

You hear about automotive recalls all the time in the newspaper, on the Internet, as well as on the nightly news. Amazingly, one in 12 cars traveling the roads today were recalled for one reason or another in 2003. However, even more amazing is the fact that only one third of the owners of the recalled vehicles chose to take their car in for the needed repairs. The car manufacturers are required to send out letters informing owners of these vehicles of the recall, regardless of whether it is a major or minor event. Also, the information regarding the recall is delivered to consumers in so many different mediums it is almost impossible that owners of the affected vehicles do not learn of the problems. However, people seem to think that if they are not experiencing any problems at the moment then the recall affects all of the other vehicles instead of theirs and end up ignoring the recall. This is negligence and simply asking for the problem with the car to crop up. However, if this happens after the recall then it is the owners fault because they were given the information and allowed to fix the problem free of charge yet they simply ignored it. As long as car manufactures report the recall and inform owners of the vehicles as they are required to do by law, it is up to the consumer to take advantage of the recall and have their automobile fixed. If not, then the owner is taking the risk. If you have not heard anything about car recalls or just bought a used vehicle and want to find out if the manufacturer issued any recalls then you should check out www.nhtsa.gov or www.autorecalls.org to see if your car is listed. Both of these websites have all the information about recalls over the past years so you can search through the year, make, and model of a vehicle to see if yours is listed. It is very likely you will see your car listed on one of these website because more than 31 million cars were recalled in 2004. That is almost unbelievable considering the amount of technology used in developing cars as well as the fact that cars are safer than they have ever been. However, it is true that mistakes are still taking places and consumers are buying vehicles with basic problems like fuses or major problems with gas lines, tires, and seats buckling in crashes. Regardless of whether or not you believe you are driving a safe car you need to check out the websites stated above every few months just to make sure your vehicle has not ended up on the list. If it has, don’t fall into the two thirds of individuals who never respond to the recall. Instead, head to the nearest dealership or authorized mechanic who can make the free repairs to your vehicle. Why so many people don’t have time for free repairs is beyond me, but knowing your vehicle has a problem that could be potentially fatal for you and your family and that a free repair is available should be enough to motivate you to have the repair taken care of. Another thing to keep in mind is that simple problems with your vehicle that result in a visit to the mechanic may not be a problem you are required to pay for. Millions of Americans each year take their cars to the mechanic for a basic repair, or even a major one, assuming something went wrong and they simply need to fix it. Unfortunately, many of these individuals never check to see if the problem was due to a recall and end up paying for a repair that might be free or discounted by the automobile manufacturer. So, armed with this knowledge the next time your vehicle has even the slightest problem make sure you check and see if the car has been recalled for similar problems and if you can get free repairs or discounted ones at the least. It is certainly worth checking out and could save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars. Who Issues Recalls? In general, the reason so many people don’t respond to recalls is because they simply don’t understand the recall process. The NHTSA , National Highway and Traffic Safety Administration, is responsible for investigating consumer complaints regarding specific vehicles and problems associated with them. After several consumers have reported the same or similar problem to the NHTSA for the same model vehicle an investigation is launched. The point of the NHTSA investigation is to determine whether the consumer caused the problem or malfunction in some way or if the manufacturer of the vehicle is at fault. If the manufacturer is determined to be at fault then the owners of affected models will receive information in the mail regarding the recall of the vehicle with information included on how they can have the problem corrected free of charge. However, the NHTSA is not always the one who issues a recall. Occasionally, the manufacturer realizes a problem exists in a certain model vehicle and will voluntarily issue a recall. Of course, the NHTSA is informed as well, and the same letter is sent to owners of the vehicle letting them know the problem with the vehicle and how to correct it. Many times, however, a recall does not affect all models of a particular year. For example, if a recall is issued on 2005 Ford Explorers more than likely it will only affect a certain batch of these vehicles and not all of them. However, if you own a vehicle of that make and year then you can take it to the dealership and the service department will run the VIN, or vehicle identification number, to determine if in fact your vehicle is affected by the recall. If so, then you can have the repairs made at no cost. If not, then you can head home knowing your vehicle is safe and sound. Just keep in mind, however, each year millions of cars are recalled for various reasons and you should always take your car in if you suspect the recall might apply to your vehicle or if you receive a recall letter. Don’t take your safety for granted, especially if the repair for the recalled vehicle is free.

Read More

Tips To Avoid Car Insurance Premium Increases & Becoming Assigned Risk

Below are some tips to reduce your auto insurance bill, prevent substantial premium increases and avoid becoming assigned risk. Claim Reports: You know about credit reports, you should also know about claim reports. C.L.U.E.® (Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange), is a claim report service provided by ChoicePoint, Inc. ChoicePoint, Inc. states on their web site "C.L.U.E. is a claim history information exchange that enables insurance companies to access prior claim information in the underwriting and rating process. C.L.U.E. Personal Property reports contain up to five years of personal property claims matching the search criteria submitted by the inquiring insurance company. Data provided in C.L.U.E. reports includes policy information such as name, date of birth and policy number, and claim information such as date of loss, type of loss and amounts paid." Tip: C.L.U.E. reports contain information on claims history by a residence address. Just like credit reports, a C.L.U.E. report may have errors. It is advisable to obtain a copy of your C.L.U.E. report at ChoiceTrust.com to check your report for errors. Credit reports: Insurance companies are now looking at credit reports to determine future premiums. They have determined that people with better credit scores have fewer claims. Consequently, if you have a poor credit report you may find yourself paying more for car insurance. Tip: Always make at least the minimum payment for your bills on time, particularly your insurance bill. Glass Coverage: Most auto insurance salespeople recommend "full" glass coverage for an additional premium, when you purchase collision coverage for your car. They remind you how much it costs to replace all your windows if broken by a vandal. What they do not tell you, and it is unlikely that they would even know (I would only trust the answer from an underwriter, not a sales representative), is whether your insurance company will use a previous glass claim to increase your future premium and whether they will report your glass claims to C.L.U.E. Some insurance companies will report glass claims to C.L.U.E. and then use these claims to raise your premium or even worse, cancel your car insurance policy making you assigned risk with a substantial premium increase. Allstate notified me that after four claims in less than five years, they terminated my auto insurance policy and then offered to sell me coverage in their Indemnity Company with a shocking premium increase. These claims consisted of two claims for a broken windshield, one for a stolen and recovered car and one accident. I had a sports car and had to endure a total premium increase over a period of four years of approximately $12,000 and remain claim free before I became eligible for coverage outside of the assigned risk pool. I wrote a letter to the president of Allstate complaining that they should not have considered my glass claims when canceling my car insurance because the glass claims were made under a separate part of the policy for which I paid a separate and additional premium. Allstate responded in a letter stating "Although this claim activity does not indicate that you were directly at fault in each loss, the frequency and severity of the above losses was not within our range of acceptability. After careful review, I regret to inform you that we cannot reverse our original decision regarding the above policy. We have however continued to offer coverage in our Indemnity Company." Tip: Check with the underwriting department of your insurance company to see if they will consider glass claims when assessing premiums or if they report glass claims to C.L.U.E. If yes, do not make a glass claim. The two windshields which Allstate provided me with were aftermarket windshields which would have cost me less than $300 each. During the last 30 years of my driving history, I have experienced two broken front windshields, one broken rear windshield and two broken side windows. While the financial risk of totaling a car can be substantial, the financial risk of replacing a windshield is comparatively insignificant. It does not make sense to file a glass claim if it will increase your premium. You may even want to decline this coverage altogether and save the premium. Tip for leased vehicles: Some lease agreements require that the car be returned with an OEM windshield. If you lease a car and replace a front windshield using your "full" glass coverage, insist that the insurance company provide you with an OEM windshield from the manufacturer. If you pay for the windshield yourself, check your lease agreement carefully to see if you must use an OEM windshield from the manufacturer or if you can use an aftermarket windshield. Some people with leased cars who have replaced a windshield with an aftermarket windshield are shocked, when they return their car, to find that the leasing company is charging them $800 for a new OEM windshield, even though the aftermarket windshield is in perfect condition. Car Rental & Towing Coverage: While it may be a good idea to have this coverage, it is not always a good idea to use it. Some people have realized that this coverage is not just available when an accident has occurred. For instance, some people have used the car rental coverage when their car was in a repair shop or the towing coverage when their car broke down on the road. As with glass coverage, using this coverage may be the same as filing a claim. Tip: Check with the underwriting department of your insurance company to see if they will consider rental or towing claims when assessing premiums or if they report these claims to C.L.U.E. If yes, do not use car rental or towing coverage unless you have had an accident, in which case it will be part of the accident claim. If you are concerned about towing costs when your car breaks down, you can buy one of the roadside assistance memberships such as the one available from AAA which provides additional benefits not provided by your automobile insurance policy.

Read More

Performance Chips feed your vehicle a heavy dose of power

Whether you want a performance chip that you can just plug in and forget about, or one that you can constantly tinker with to find your perfect settings, AutoAnything has the right electrical gear for you. We have three different styles of performance chips to choose from, each with their own unique characteristics and capabilities. However, for all their differences, the one thing they have in common is the power to propel your vehicle's performance to unbelievable heights. 3 fundamental types of performance chips Control Modules A control module plugs directly into your under-the-hood electrical system, standing right in between the data from your various sensors and the computer. The module intercepts the data before it has a chance to reach the onboard computer. Then, it analyses the information, determines the proper adjustments to the air/fuel ratio, ignition timing and other key functions, and then sends commands to the onboard computer. A control module delivers accurate, immediate tuning for your engine because it is always plugged in and constantly reading and interpreting data from your sensors. Each control module is custom-programmed to maximize the output and efficiency of your vehicle's specific year, make and model, taking into consideration engine size, transmission type and even your stock tire size. What's more, many control modules come in different power levels, or stages. That way, you can choose the perfect amount of power for your unique driving habits. Many of the control modules for diesel rigs have optional in-cab monitors that display up to the second readings of such critical engine information as turbo boost, engine gas temperature and RPMs. Some even display your 0-60 acceleration and quarter mile time, and give you on-the-fly control of different settings. For the best results, you will want to use a higher grade fuel with more octanes, like 91 or higher. Installing a control module is simple and should not take more than 15 minutes. They have a built-in, heat-shielded wiring harness that plugs directly into your onboard computer, so there's absolutely no soldering, splicing or drilling required. After all the wires are connected, you never have to worry about adjusting the module ever again, unless you would like to return to your factory settings. Power Programmers Like control modules, power programmers reconfigure your vehicle's onboard computer to perform at peak levels, but they operate differently. Rather than being permanently installed into your electrical system, power programmers are plug-n-play devices. Before hitting the road, you connect it to your OBD-II Port, which is handily located right under your dashboard. You will then answer a number of questions about your vehicle, any modifications you have made and what level of power you want. Based on how you respond to the questions, the power programmer then uploads a new set of operating instructions to your vehicle's computer. The new operating program only has to be uploaded once, so you can pack away your power programmer or experiment with some of the other settings and modes. Best of all, the whole process only takes about 10 minutes, and the only tools you'll need are your own two hands. The advantage of the power programmer is that you have greater control over the tuning of your system. For example, you will be able to recalibrate your onboard computer to any changes in tire size, speed rating or even your rear end gear ratio. These changes dramatically affect your vehicle's performance, but your computer does know to recalculate unless you use a power programmer to communicate with it. Moreover, many of our power programmers let you tune your engine for regular octane usage instead of the usual 91 or higher fuel grade. Engine Management Systems (EMS) If you want total control of your vehicle's computer system, don't just reprogram it-replace it. An EMS is a complete substitution for your stock onboard computer, giving you virtually unlimited command over just about ever aspect of your vehicle's control system. Engine management systems are designed to customize your car, truck, or SUV to your exact specifications. For those of us who know about the inner workings of your entire drive train, only an EMS gives you full control of every minute detail, from your air/fuel ratio and fuel injector control, to idle speed and nitrous (wet or dry) management. You mount the EMS inside your engine compartment. Once it is secured, you simply unplug the wires from your old computer and plug them into the new one. Those wires sync your EMS with all of your vehicle's sensors, so it has an immediate connection to all the data from every critical part on your automobile. It uses the readings from your sensors to run your engine at its peek level. You can even plug your laptop into the EMS to view performance information and manipulate settings. Application with your ride Sure, a control module, power programmer or EMS unleashes huge gains in horsepower, torque and efficiency, but you are probably wondering how it actually works. For most performance parts, their purpose is obvious-more power. You can visualize and hear a hotrod exhaust system hard at work, and you can hold the pipes and headers right in your hands. A performance chip, on the other hand, exists in the invisible world of electrical pulses and binary codes.

Read More

video tubes pleasure

Ringkasan ini tidak tersedia. Harap klik di sini untuk melihat postingan.

Read More

The Quick Guide To Buying A Vehicle

Buying a car will most likely be one of the largest purchases you make in your life and so its importance cannot be understated. With such a huge array of vehicles to choose from, throughout the various price ranges, research will be the key to a successful purchase. When you are thinking about buying a car there is one important factor to appreciate – in financial terms nearly all vehicles are liabilities. That is they LOSE money and are an added burden to your finances – not only the initial purchase but also the insurance, gas costs, repairs and then the depreciation when you come to sell it. That said, they are also fast becoming an essential possession in the modern world – only major cities have comprehensive public transport systems, so to get around at your convenience there is only one option – buy a car. The first item to consider is the method of payment for the vehicle – buy to own or lease over a period of time. Either way you will need to calculate your budget to see what you can afford not only up front or monthly payments but also the following: 1. How reliable a make of car it is – are the parts expensive? 2. How long is the warranty period and how comprehensive is it? 3. How much does the insurance cost? 4. What are the service intervals and how much do they cost? 5. The economy of the vehicle compared with the type and distance of driving you normally do. 6. Style of vehicle – do you need a truck or SUV for local/inner city driving? How many passengers do you carry? 7. How long will you want to keep it? (Marriage, kids or relocation?) Don’t sign up for expensive 5 year financing if you only want to keep it for 12 months. 8. What is the MRP of the vehicle – always look for discount. 9. What is the resale value of the vehicle – is the depreciation high? Methods of Purchasing 1. Buy new – This is fast becoming a more affordable method of buying a car and you can either pay cash up front (if you’re lucky), arrange your own financing or take out the financing from the car dealer (if buying from a dealer). Most domestic manufacturers will offer either large discounts for cash payment or 0% financing over a period of up to 5 years. The imported vehicles (far eastern/European) are very popular and most don’t need to offer such large incentives for sales as the reliability and economy of their products are in high demand. There seems to be 2 major factors when choosing a new vehicle – price over quality. A Japanese / European imports have the quality but you will pay handsomely for it – a North American vehicle (GM, Ford, Chrysler/Dodge) definitely have the price and incentives so that will come down to personal choice. 2. Buy used – The most likely choice of many of us either through a private sale or a used car dealer. Many private transactions are completed due to reasonable pricing (agreed between the seller and purchaser) that is normally based upon the condition of the vehicle (any crashes or service history), the age, and fair market value. The main drawback is that these sales are completed “sold as seen” and there is very often little or no comeback should the vehicle subsequently fail shortly after the transfer of ownership. It is a necessity to have the vehicle history checked if you are committing to a private transaction. If the vehicle is stolen or has finance owing on it there is a very strong chance of it being repossessed should it be uncovered. These checks also show the last known mileage (prevents clock tampering) and also any reported collision damage (written off and then rebuilt) and for a small fee can save an awful lot of heartache and financial difficulties. If you buy from a reputable dealer you will pay more for the vehicle but will normally be able to trade in any old vehicle. Again you will not be paid too much for the trade in but not having to worry about the sale of the old vehicle may well offset that. You should also have a decent warranty with the vehicle you buy which may be the balance of the manufacturers warranty or up to 3 months from the dealer. If it is a dealer warranty, make sure you fully understand what is and more importantly isn’t covered – the small print must be read and understood. Depending upon the size of the dealership, you may be able to purchase an extended warranty, again check what is covered and for how long – you really don’t need any surprises when the problems arise. 3. Auctions are another method of purchasing which can save you a lot of cash if you are brave enough. You will have the chance to look over the vehicles prior to the auction and the auction company will usually run some background checks to avoid selling stolen cars. If you know what you are doing this can really be a cost effective way of buying a car but also probably the one with the highest risk. 4. Lease – This entails a down payment (normally) followed by a monthly payment which will be less than the financing of a new vehicle payment. This method isn’t everyone’s idea of monetary sense as you make payments but will never have any equity at the end of the lease term. The major benefits are that you will be able to have a new car every few years (usually before the warranty period expires) and simply give the vehicle back in exchange for the next new one. You will most likely have a pre agreed limit on mileage that will cost you extra should you surpass it and you will be liable for the servicing costs. Whether you are buying a car - new or used - never pay the “price” on show – these are heavily inflated and you should be able to negotiate a substantial discount. If not – go somewhere else – you are the customer that they should be bending over backwards to please. Do not be afraid to walk out on a dealership if you are unhappy with what’s on offer and definitely visit several different dealerships and play them off against each other to gain a favorable price. More detailed information on Buying a Car can be found at http://www.onestopimmigration-canada.com/buying_a_car.html

Read More

Tips for customizing import tuners

So you’ve tacked a three-foot-high metal bar onto the back of your trunk, spent $200 on clear-colored taillights and another $600 on “VTEC” stickers, rented The Fast and the Furious three times, and you say your car still doesn’t go any faster? We’re just as baffled as you, but we have a few pointers that might help. 1. Even if the point is to build your own personal Import Tuner, it’s critical to start with a decent foundation. All the lowering, stiffening, and boosting doesn’t mean half as much on a car that can’t put it to good use, and there are plenty of cheap, good platforms out there. - What’s popular isn’t always best. Sure, you could become Slammed Honda Import Car Owner #16,384, and you’d be getting a reputable car with one of the world’s most tuner-friendly engines. You’d also have to live with marginal low-end torque (not as easy to upgrade as horsepower), and unless you dip back into the 1990s, wouldn’t be getting that car’s double-wishbone front suspension, one of the things that made it special. Like most cars, it’s also front-wheel-drive, capping a low glass ceiling on the usefulness of whatever extra power you squeeze out of that little engine. - Get a rear- or all-wheel-drive car if you plan to go fast. One set of wheels can only do so much, and overpowered front-drivers simply have lower handling skills all around, not to mention feeling slow-witted and less fun even when driven normally. And wouldn’t you like to give drifting a try? Some recent RWD cars that sold for less than $30,000: Mazda Miata, Toyota MR2, Ford Mustang, Nissan 350Z, Mazda RX-8, Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird. - Lighter is better. Mass is the enemy of all vehicle dynamics: acceleration, braking, roadholding, turning, etc. Starting light is its own reward, and makes every future mod count that much more. 2. Now for the upgrades themselves. - The single most beneficial: a turbocharger seen modified on japanese Import Cars. Assuming your first wish is to go faster (with the same engine), this exhaust gas-recycling device crams extra air into your engine at higher engine speeds, boosting output of both horsepower and torque. Superchargers achieve the same basic effect through less-efficient means (since it relies on the engine for power). - After fortifying your engine is the time to worry about intake and exhaust mods (better cams, headers, air filters, mufflers, etc.) High-performance / high-strung engines are better equipped to enjoy the benefits of better breathing. - As far as suspensions and lowering, feel free to go as hard as you can handle. But build properly, making sure your shocks are at least as aggressive as your springs, since the point of the former is to control the motion of the latter and you don’t want your suspension constantly hitting its bump stops. And don’t cut your springs! - Bigger wheels benefit handling, but there are drawbacks: harder ride, more unsprung mass, more work for your shocks, and lowered resistance to pothole damage. Depending on how much torque you have on tap, too much traction can also make it hard to provoke wheelspin during launches, damping some fun and delaying the acceleration process. As a rule of thumb, don’t fit a street car with any diameter past the teens, or with tires that have an aspect ratio of less than 40. - Speaking of tires, no one brand is best, and model lines change names all the time. Just stay away from low-performance all-season tires (anything with “M+S” stamped on it) and try to stay with tires with a speed rating of H (130 MPH) or higher. After H comes V, Z, and Y. Before H comes R, S, and T. Yes, it doesn’t make sense. - As far as brakes go, bigger rotors help, but also only to a point. Braking depends just as much on tire traction as the brakes themselves, and again, going bigger also adds more unsprung mass. Instead, focus on making bum brakes better, i.e. swapping from rear drums to discs (better heat resistance, pedal feel, and stopping ability), or swapping from solid discs to vented ones (better cooling). Brembo is the standard in aftermarket brake brands. - Fitting a new set of gears and/or a new final-drive ratio can boost torque and make your engine a little more responsive, at the cost of a little gas, more engine noise, and lowered top speeds (since you run into the redline earlier). - If all you want is more low-speed muscle (like many motorists), all the tiny engine tweaks in the world won’t help you. Power and torque are different (though related) commodities; what you need is a car with a bigger engine. - Unless you have a rear-drive car and drive at triple digits, stay away from spoilers. Specifically, stay away from wings – any high-flying bar that isn’t 100% attached to the body. At low/medium speeds, their main contribution is drag, and on front-wheel-drive cars, the rear downforce they add is actually counterproductive, causing even more understeer than usual. Spoilers (i.e. the attached-to-the-body kind that you might see on an old Lexus SC400 or V6 Pontiac Firebird), on the other hand, actually improve airflow and are slightly useful.

Read More

Teaching Student Drivers: 9 Tips To Keep Everyone Safe And Sane

I have had the experience of teaching several people how to drive. Some were youngsters, but I have also taught a few adults how to drive too. Let’s just say that I am more than glad to have “retired” from this practice as teaching someone how to drive can be taxing mentally as well as physically. Still, not everyone has the funds to go to driving school or an available friend to help out. So, if you are one of the “lucky” ones playing the role of instructor, here are some tips to help keep you sane and your student listening. 1. Set A Schedule. Keeping teens on a schedule can be nearly impossible as they juggle their busy lives with after school programs, work, homework, socializing, etc., but it is something that you must do. Find a time that works for the both of you and go out no more than one hour each time for your lessons. Oh, by the way, make sure your driver in training has his or her driver’s permit on them at all times. 2. Simple Start. Keep the first lesson or two simple. Backing in and out of the driveway and driving around the neighborhood first are good starts. If you live on a busy road, then you should drive the car to a less busy area before allowing your student to take over. At the very beginning, avoid driving on days when pavement is wet – dealing with water on the road is a separate lesson for the more experienced student. 3. A Good Beginning. Thirty years after I first received my license, I remember in my lessons being told that there were four things that a driver must do before even starting the car: door, seat, seatbelt, mirror. In other words: close and lock the doors, adjust the driver’s seat for your personal settings, fasten your seatbelt, and adjust side and rear view mirrors. Then, put the key in the ignition, start the car, look all around, engage the transmission, and slowly step on the accelerator and get moving. 4. Moving Forward. Once your driver has a good feel for the car – no jackrabbit starts or hard breaking observed – step things up and start practicing using hand and turn signals, parallel parking, how to negotiate turns and curbs, etc. 5. Stepping Out. After several lessons of driving locally and practicing safe driver habits, it is time to take the student out onto a busy road. Keep this lesson short to allow the nervous student time to adjust to driving in traffic. At least initially avoid rush hour traffic, highways, and areas with excessive pedestrian traffic. Make sure your student understands road signs, traffic signals, stopping/yielding, and the myriad of other rules of the road. Repeat lessons as needed to help your student grow accustomed to driving in traffic. Once your student builds up their confidence, take them out on the highway. 6. Study and Review. While behind the wheel lessons are extremely important, knowledge about driving rules and regulations are important too. When driving down the road, point out road signs and ask your student what they mean. Discuss the fines and points that can be assessed by the Department of Motor Vehicles {DMV} for violations. All of these things will be on their written test. 7. Defensive Driving. If you live in a more northerly climate, learning how to drive on ice and snow is essential to being a safe driver. Even if your student learns how to drive and secures their license in warmer months, insist on getting back in the car with them when wet leaves, snow, and ice are on the ground. Also make certain that your student understands how alcohol can impair judgment, how a radio, cell phone, or other passengers can distract them, and how to drive around pedestrians, bicyclists, mopeds, etc. 8. Check Fluids. An important lesson apart from actual driving and preparing for the written test is maintenance of the vehicle. Your student should be familiar with looking under the hood, checking fluid levels, hoses, belts, etc. Also show your student how to check tire pressure, do a visual check of turn signals, headlights, and all other lights. Familiarization with the exhaust and suspension systems is important too. 9. Ready, Set, Test! Once you are certain that your student understands all the rules of the road, is exhibiting safe driving practices, and is a confident driver then take the test. Do not let a pending birthday or special event drive that decision as you want to produce a safe driver, not a reckless one. Once your student has passed their test make certain that the information on their license is correct, your car’s registration is up to date, your insurance has them covered, and the car that he will be driving is road ready before allowing him to drive by himself. Remember, driving is a privilege and not a right. Good driving habits are formed early on, but so are bad habits. Nip any problems in the bud early to ensure the safety of your student and everyone else who is out on our roads.

Read More

Parallel Parking For The Novice Driver

This could be the most talked about maneuver amongst new drivers and their biggest fear, when it comes to driving. I have heard of stories how drivers elect to park one or two blocks away to avoid parking between two cars. The most important thing to consider when attempting a park between two vehicles is safety first. Approaching a vehicle ahead of you, parked on the side of the roadway should be done and planned well in advance. The beginning of the maneuver should start far enough back. If the roadway is wide enough, check you’re mirrors, touch you’re brake pedal to warn other drivers that you are slowing down and stopping. Signal to the right, assuming we are parking on the right. Check you’re right shoulder, keeping the steering wheel straight. Once everything is safe, gradually move over, and drive in a straight line alongside the vehicles you’re planning to park between. Do not attempt to move in at the last minute, towards the vehicle. You should be planning this far enough back to swing in sooner, so you will be going straight along side the vehicle, as you approach the vehicle in front of you. You should have a minimum of a couple of feet clearance. As you pull along side the spot that you are attempting to park, pause, and make a decision on the size of area. This decision should only take a couple of seconds. Is it big enough for you’re vehicle? You should have a few feet extra on both ends of the car. You have to leave enough room for other drivers that may attempt to back up, if they have to clear the vehicle in front of their car, to get out. Once you have made the decision that the area that you are going to park is big enough. Continue straight ahead, and stop, when you are parallel to the vehicle you are going to park behind, and change gears to reverse. Look out the back passenger window and check if you can see the tail end corner of the vehicle, you are parking beside. If you can see it, this is you’re turning point. If not, check you’re left shoulder for pedestrians. You shouldn’t have to worry about traffic at this point. You’re front end is not swinging out. Only when it is safe, roll straight back, looking out the back passenger window, and stop when it comes into view. By doing this, you’re vehicle front end should clear the car in front of you, but you still have to check to make sure, when you swing in. It will not work if you’re only a couple inches away from vehicle you’re beside. You need to be two or three feet away. Now is the time to make the maneuver into the parking spot. First we have to do some safety procedures. Check you’re mirrors for vehicles and cyclist coming up behind you. Check you’re blind spot just in case there is someone coming across, from you’re left side. If you’re back end is going to swing into the parking spot, the front end is going to swing out, further into the roadway. Once the safety checks are all done, and you can see the tail end of the vehicle beside you. Move in slowly with you’re foot covering the brake only to ease up to get the vehicle rolling, and pushing down to slow the vehicle. Use the gas pedal only to get it rolling if you have to, but make sure you are covering the brake during the majority of this maneuver. You should be looking out the back window and watch the curb of the sidewalk slowly disappear along the tail end of you’re vehicle. It’ll slowly disappear from the left side to the right side. Once you think you cannot see it on the back corner of you’re side, behind you, pause and gradually turn the wheel the other way. The faster it disappears, the faster you have to turn the steering wheel. Once it is all gone along the tail end and corner of vehicle, the steering wheel should be turned all the way the other way at this point, before you roll back any further. Make sure you glance forward as you’re front end swings in to make sure the front end of you’re vehicle is clear of the vehicle in front of you. Once you know the front is clear, continue to look back until the vehicle is stopped. Change gears and move forward with you’re foot on the brake, keeping in mind, the wheels of the car is turned out towards the roadway. Straighten the front end of the vehicle and the wheels of you’re vehicle. If you are not sure of the direction of where the wheels are turned, slowly release the brake and watch your front end roll and correct accordingly. (Check driving manual for wheel alignment when parking on a hill.) This driving technique has worked for my students in the past, and I still use it. Vehicles have changed over the years, and it is harder to see the back end of the vehicle. Please consult with a family member, and or recognized driving school for further instructions on parallel parking.

Read More

Proper Car Washing, Polishing And Waxing from the Experts

It is amazing the number of people that don’t know how to properly clean or polish and wax their cars. Many people use products that were never intended for their car and others use products and equipment that should only be used by properly trained professionals. Some never even wax or clean their cars. Then they wonder why their car is given a very low trade in figure at the dealer, or why their paint is dull and flaking. For the purpose of this article we interviewed numerous professional automotive detailers and similar professionals. We asked them what products they used and for tips that consumers could use. They pretty much came back with the same advice: Properly clean the car: This is very important as the use of harsh, non-automotive products can actually harm your cars finish and make it wear quicker. Spray the car first and get it wet. Use the water to spray off dirt and other contaminates that will scratch your car if you immediately start using a sponge and water first. Also do not clean your car in the sun on a hot day. Do make sure you use warm water as it works best to loosen contaminates. After getting your car wet, use an automotive car wash solution and add to water in a bucket. Follow the directions on the bottle. Then wash the car. You will find it easier if you use a long handled wash brush (most auto parts stores have these). Be sure to wash and rinse in sections so the car wash soap doesn’t dry before being washed off. Then using terry cloth towels or chamois, dry the car off. Expert tip: use a squeegee. It is much faster and easier. Remove stubborn contaminants: There will be dirt, bugs, tar, etc… that will be left after washing. There are many products that are made specifically for removing these items you’re your paint and car. The resounding answer from the experts was Meguiar’s bug and tar cleaner. Remove all the contaminants and follow the directions (some products can remove paint if not used correctly). Expert tip: 3M and other manufacturers make a plastic shield that can be applied over areas of your car’s paint like bumpers and behind the tires to protect from contaminants and rock chips. Use a cleaner polish: This will remove any left over stubborn contaminates like ground in bug splatter on your painted bumper, acid rain etching, bird drop spots, and minor scratches. Use a circular motion, just like for wax. Follow the directions for that particular cleaner polish (some require a wet or damp applicator pad others don’t). Do the car one section at a time and use a clean section of cloth to buff once dry. Most cleaner polishes will dry to a whitish haze. Be sure to buff off all the haze and residue from the cleaner polish. When done the car finish will be really smooth. Expert tip: for deeper scratches, contaminants, etc… you can use an orbital buffer or polisher to apply the cleaner polish. Be careful and use low rpm’s (under 2000) anything above this and you risk burning the paint. Apply several coats of polish or wax: There is a big difference between car wax and car polish. Car wax is usually a blend of carnauba and other waxes which will give a deep, wet look and new car shine. It comes in both a liquid and a paste, and it will not last as long as a car polish. Car wax is also less effective in high temperatures and can actually melt on hot areas like the hood. Car polish is a polymer blend usually with no wax. Car polishes can last 1 year between coats and is very durable protection for your paint. The experts recommend a car polish with Teflon in it for maximum protection and durability. The experts love the extra, deeper shine from car wax, but all agreed it was better suited for car shows. Whichever you choose, they are both applied the same way. Apply in a circular motion and let it dry to a haze. Then buff dry with a clean terry cloth or microfiber towel. Expert tip: Don’t use regular towels or diaper cloths as they can trap dirt particles and similar and leave scratch patterns in your finish. A microfiber cloth works best for removing dried car polish or car wax haze. 2 to 3 coats are recommended for maximum protection and shine. A good rule is to reapply the car polish or car wax at least 2 times per year. Expert tip: Apply car wax, not car polish (as car polish will leave streaks and smudges on glass), to your windows. Do one light coat and completely buff it off. The car wax will work better than the leading brand glass treatment for rain (it will also quite your windshield wipers).

Read More

Mudarse a Otro Pais

Si te mudas a otro país o ciudad, sea cual fuera la razón, trabajo, situación económica, familia, novio, novia, cambio de aire; todas las razones llegan a ser insuficientes pero necesarias a la hora de adaptarse. Adaptarse a una nueva cultura, idioma, ambiente, clima, reglas sociales, y estilo de vida es muy duro y al mismo tiempo interesante. En mi caso personal, cuando me mude de país fue porque mi familia lo decidió hacer, no seguí mis necesidades ya que era demasiado chica para seguir mi propio camino y demasiado grande para depender de sus decisiones. Sin embargo seguí las decisiones de mi familia. Al principio de mi llegada, decidí tomarme todo fácilmente como si fuera irreal, ya que era muy duro enfrentar la realidad de que me aleje de mi vida, que deje todo lo que tenia atrás. Decidí entonces que todo seria una gran vacación. Junto con el clima era caluroso, vivía cerca de la playa lo cual en mi país no lo tenía entonces mi vida seria un cuento total. A lo largo de los meses, no hacia mas nada que salir, comprar, conocer gente y divertirme sin ningún propósito de lo que iba a pasar en mi futuro. Luego de unos meses conocí a un chico que creía que cumplía con todas mis expectativas de hombre ideal. Popular, atractivo, simpático, deportista y demás. Comenzamos a salir y creía que era el sueño de mi vida hecho realidad, ¿Qué podía ser mas perfecto que eso? La realidad me cayo de golpe cuando me di cuenta que nada de lo que creía tan perfecto era así, sino una idealización de eso. Mi plata se me iba disminuyendo poco a poco, el novio perfecto no eran perfecto ni mucho menos sino que solo quería demostrarlo ser, y traía consigo más complicaciones y dilemas que me llevarían a sufrir en la relación. Mis alrededores no me satisfacían como yo pensaba que iban a hacerlo, pero decidí que debía intentarlo igual ya que todo parecía perfecto y no lo quería arruinar. Luego vino el invierno y comencé lo que había planeado antes de mi llegada: estudiar moda y convertirme en una súper diseñadora. Sin embargo me encontré con un lugar lleno de gente que creía ser demasiado rara y competitiva, sin nada de ganas de socializar ni conocer a alguien nuevo. La presión de ser aceptado a la escuela de arte y ganar la simpatía de los profesores era mayor que otra cosa. Me encontré en situaciones difíciles como en una clase de moldes, tratando de hacer una pollera que me llevaría hacer un día entero solo el molde. Ahí me di cuenta que lo que necesitaba era estudiar en un idioma que me era cómodo, con gente parecida a mi con ganas de disfrutar la época universitaria y aprender pero con un propósito mas profundo que llenara mi alma. Luego de un tiempo pensé y pensé que todo lo que creía necesario para mi felicidad en realidad no me satisfacía y no entendía mis sentimientos y descontento. Mi familia tampoco lo entendía. La verdad es que hay gente que sabe encontrar lo que busca más fácil que otra. Pueden seguir su propio instinto sin importar lo que dirán los demás, si aceptan o no. Hay otra, que les es más difícil y necesitan demostrar a los demás que logran lo que se proponen, sin saber si realmente lo desean. En fin, mudarse de país es algo muy complicado que también tiene cosas positivas. Ayuda a abrir la cabeza y darse cuenta que uno no esta solo, que hay mucha gente diferente aparte de lo que uno creía único, que las culturas son diferentes y parecidas en muchos aspectos, que a pesar de que uno intente adaptarse a algo nuevo, en el fondo es importante mantener nuestra identidad. Debes seguir tus sentimientos siempre, porque tu solo sabes lo que es bueno para ti.

Read More

New Cock Ring

Ringkasan ini tidak tersedia. Harap klik di sini untuk melihat postingan.

Read More

Reasons For Buying A Car

Besides the obvious reason, transportation, are there any other pressing reasons for buying a car? Perhaps it is a necessity like requiring inexpensive transportation to and from work. Or, maybe you are a “stay at home” Mom or Dad and need a vehicle to haul children around to school and various other activities. Regardless of your reason, make certain that purchasing the car is for a valid purpose and not just because you want to outdo “The Joneses.” In this guide we will show you some of the pitfalls to avoid as well as information to make your selection much easier. The following are basic reasons you should consider when making that all important car purchase. Is it a good buy? The best time period to buy that car you have always dreamed of having is later in the month. Usually, there are numerous rebate programs and bonus offered by month’s end based on a dealer’s monthly sales quotas. The idea is that, sometimes dealers fall short of meeting their sales objectives. If their performance is assessed by the end of the month this can prove to be good news to most car buyers since dealers now have no choice but to sell vehicles at a price that is lower than their norm. They are pressed to make more sales that will count for their monthly sales and that puts you at an advantage as a buyer. Peace of mind Sometimes dealers do a song and dance routine just to make that sale. The result is that often car buyers end up with car features they realize later on they do not really need and a price they actually could not afford. You can avoid this potential stress by always remembering to trust your instincts. If ever you feel in doubt, the answer -- don’t -- do not let yourself be pressured to making that purchase now. This is a common strategy of car dealers wherein they compel the customer to buy that car, now, this moment, today! Do not forget that you should always sleep on it and then decide. This is a lot better than making your mind up now and forever holding your peace. First Impression To quote a common cliché, first impressions usually last. Though not always true, when buying cars, you could get many ideas just by observing how car sales people deal with you. Usually, these non-verbal signals are fairly correct enough enabling you to know what to expect from your car purchase. If at any time you feel that the person selling you the car is not trustworthy or simply do not like him or her, always remember that you have the option to leave. It is advisable that you do not sell yourself too much. Time is precious, especially yours. So do not waste it. You are always free to politely walk away, anytime, anywhere, and in any way you like it. But if there are not many car dealers in your area, you may want to linger for a few moments more and wait until the negotiations you have with your dealer breaks down and you simply have no option but to run off. The Invoice Price Another thing to consider when buying a car is the invoice price. Make sure to ask that you see the invoice. If dealers are working their tails off against it, you have enough reason to believe that the car being offered is an unpleasant deal. Usually, the price on the invoice is the cost the dealer paid the manufacturer for buying the car. This is before any rebates or incentives were included. Once this is known, only then will you have an idea as to how much the dealer could profit from each vehicle sold. Knowing this information could enable one to be more confident then in negotiating the price. The Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price In layman’s term, this is commonly called the sticker price. This is the price one usually sees in the window of the car that is being sold. Never ever consider paying the amount stated on the sticker price. This amount is just the starting point to your negotiations with the dealer. Incentives There are instances when manufacturers provide the dealers with a little something extra, like money, rebates or a bonus because they are able to sell cars that are either overstocked or undersold. Make sure that before actually purchasing a car, you were able to know if that car you are buying has some dealer incentives attached to it. If so, take off that amount from the car’s purchase price and have yourself a very good deal and hopefully, a very good car as well.

Read More

Take The Extra Mile: Fuel Efficiency Tips

Increases in the price of gas, accompany the increase in the number of fuel-saving scams. Continuous increase in the price of gas is common news nowadays. This is accompanied by an upsurge in advertising exposures for “gas saving” gadgets. These products attract potential buyers searching for methods to maximize fuel efficiency. There are important procedures car owners can take in consideration to improve gas mileage. According to the Better Business Bureau, the public should be critical in assessing products that claim gas saving features for vehicle devices or additives for gas and oil. There are products that feature gas-saving features that really work. In addition to that, consumers could be facing a major engine trouble or a nullified creator’s warranty by putting devices to the engine. Consumers should be wary of these specific advertising slogans: “20 percent fuel efficiency improvement” A hundred or more devices that feature gas-saving qualities are proven untrue by the Environmental Protection Agency. Worse, there are so-called “gas-saving” devices that may cause a harmful effect to a vehicle’s engine. Another side effect is more smoke emissions. Examples of these devices are Engine Modifiers, Additives, Fuel Line Gadgets, Liquid Injection, Vapor and Air Release Devices and a lot more. “Get an additional 4 miles for each gallon with this product” Consumer testimonials are common in fuel saving ads. Assuming these testimonials are not made up, few consumers test the fuel consumption of their vehicle before putting on the gadget. Therefore, an objective comparison of the fuel consumption before and after the product was added will not be attained. “Federal Government Approved” Keep in mind, a government agency never endorses fuel saving devices. Although EPA has assessed potential gas savings but first the product should be evaluated and tested. The alternative in looking for gas-saving devices, the BBB suggests that the public should take into consideration doing more than one activity that can help conserve gas. The vital way to begin is to concentrate on the gas pump. The consumer should buy only gas as needed. Make sure to review the car manual to know the proper level of octane of the car. The following are practical tips to conserve gas: Efficient driving Just drive reasonably within the speed limit. Remember that speeds of more than 60 miles per hour increase fuel consumption. Do not do sudden starts, accelerations and stops. Acceleration should be done gradually. The gas pedal should not be stepped on more than one fourth of the way down. This will allow the engine to function most efficiently. Gas conservation could reach up to 5 percent if sudden stops, jerks and accelerations are avoided. Make use of gears for overdrive and cruise control as needed. Fuel efficiency is attained when moving on the highway. Windows should be closed on highways. Windows that are open can create air drag that can decrease the fuel consumption by 10%. Rough roads should not be taken as much as possible. Dirt, bumps, rough roads and gravels can cause 30% increase in fuel consumption. Take out unnecessary baggage. The trunk should be kept clean, any gadget, tools or loads that are not needed should be taken out. 100 pounds of extra baggage can affect fuel economy by two percent. The car should always be maintained. The engine should be given a regular tune up, the tires should always have the right air pressure and efficiently aligned, the oil should be changed when needed and air filters replaced regularly. Clogged filters can affect gas consumption adversely by up to ten percent. Turn off the engine whenever there is an opportunity. Idle engine wastes fuel. There are instances where the engine could be turned off; stopping for gas, waiting for someone, changing tire pressure, caught in traffic and a lot more. Engine warm-up fuel conservation tips: Lengthy warming up of the engine should be avoided. 30 to 45 seconds should be enough time. Check if the automatic check is removed after warming up the engine. This is usually stuck which could usually cause poor gas and air combination. Do not rev the engine. This is usually done before turning off the engine. This causes unnecessary fuel loss and also washes the oil within the cylinder walls. As an effect, there is air pressure loss and consequently fuel loss as well.

Read More

What The New California Car Buyer’s Bill of Rights Means To You

Beginning on July 1, 2006, California granted its car-buying residents a new set of protections under the Car Buyer’s Bill of Rights. Not only will these new rights change the way cars are bought and sold in California, they're already spreading across the country and being adopted by other states as well. The protections under the new law apply to vehicles (cars, trucks, SUVs) purchased in California for personal use from a dealer/dealership. They do not apply to private sales, out of state purchases, commercial vehicles, RVs and motorcycles. What are the protections? 1. The Two Day Return Used car buyers now have the opportunity to protect themselves with a two-day return option. This is designed to help buyers who may not have had the time to have the vehicle properly inspected by a mechanic, for those who are purchasing a car "as is," or for those car buyers who might have succumbed to the pressure to buy on the spot. There are a few limits on the two-day return protection. First, the option only applies to used vehicles purchased through a dealership for personal use that cost $40,000 or less. Second, the dealership can charge you for this option (anywhere from $75 to $400, plus a restocking fee, all depending on the price of the vehicle). Additionally, the vehicle must be returned within two days, having been driven fewer than 250 miles, and be in the same condition as when it was purchased. 2. Trade-Ins With the two-day return option, the dealer is required to hold onto your trade-in until the option expires. If the dealer sells your trade-in early, you're entitled to the vehicle's fair market value or the price listed in the cancellation agreement, whichever is more. 3. Certified Used Cars In the past, any used car that a dealer has had inspected by a mechanic could be advertised as a "certified pre-owned vehicle." This is no longer the case. Dealers can no longer advertise (or sell) certain problem cars as "certified pre-owned vehicles." 4. Seller Disclosures Under the new law, auto dealers must provide the following in writing: a. The price of the vehicle without extra options and add-ons. b. The specific price for add-ons, such as anti-theft devices, fabric protection, extended service contracts and "gap" insurance. c. A copy of your credit score if you're getting a loan through the dealership. Your credit score will range from 300 to 900, and reflect your credit worthiness as primarily determined by the timeliness of your past loan payments. If your credit score is high enough, you can often benefit from lower interest rates. 5. Limit On Interest Rate Markups It's a common practice in the industry for auto lenders to pay dealers an incentive for getting buyers to pay a higher interest rate than they should be paying, according to their credit history. This additional boost in the interest rate is referred to as a "markup." The new California Car Buyer’s Bill of Rights limits the markup a dealer can receive from a lender to a maximum of 2.5% for loans up to 60 months and to 2% for longer loans. The New California Car Buyer’s Bill of Rights is designed to make it safer for you to purchase your next used vehicle through a dealership without fear that you're going to get stuck with something you either don't want or something that doesn't live up to its advertising. Knowing your rights can save you both months of headaches and significant money, but only if you take advantage of them.

Read More

Maintaining Your Car Will Make It Last Longer

Regular maintenance of your vehicle will extend its life perhaps well beyond what you or others may think is its normal lifespan. Today’s cars can easily top the 100,000 mile mark with many cars on the road exceeding 150,000, 200,000, even 250,000 miles. Ask owners of high mileage cars how they got to that point and most will point to their own rigorous and disciplined maintenance schedules as being the chief factor. By carefully and diligently following a maintenance schedule, you can extend your vehicle’s life too. Let’s take a look at several important maintenance steps you must take in order to avoid costly repairs and to help you hold onto your vehicle longer. Regular oil changes – The 30 minute oil change specialists recommend that you change your oil every 3,000 miles or three months, while some manufacturers state you only need to change your oil once every 7,500 miles or six months. Opt for more frequent changes than lengthy manufacturer recommended intervals, but change your oil [and oil filter] every 3,000 miles if your car is subject to hard driving. Change your air filter – Your engine will run better and cleaner if you change your air filter at least once per year; more so if you do a lot of “stop and go” driving or put on many more miles per year than average. Rotate your tires – Evenly wearing tires will help ensure that your car stops properly and stays on the road. Have your brakes and shocks inspected too to avoid potential handling and control issues. Transmission fluid – Your transmission isn’t guaranteed to run forever. Change your fluid at manufacturer recommended intervals, generally once every 30 or 60 thousand miles. Neglect it and face costly repairs and potentially fatal [to the car] consequences. Drain the radiator – Periodically draining the radiator and replacing the antifreeze will help flush out rust and dirt particles that can clog up your cooling system. When the coolant’s rust inhibitors get used up then corrosion will show up within the radiator as well as in the engine block Change the spark plugs – Some manufacturers have installed long life spark plugs meaning that changing spark plugs once every 60 or even 90 thousand miles or more is a possibility. Keep in mind that the longer your spark plugs sit in place, the more difficult it may be to remove them later. Optimally, replacing your spark plugs once every 30 thousand miles is ideal. Examine your exhaust system – Your muffler, catalytic converter, and remaining exhaust system parts can wear out. A poorly functioning exhaust system saps your engine of needed power. Wash and wax – Yes, your car may mechanically run well, but if the body falls apart, then what do you have left? Regular washings and a once a year wax job should do the trick. Other stuff – Replace your battery, fuel filter, PCV valve, belts, and hoses as needed and every other part that wears out. Sensors come and sensors go; usually you will only have to replace your knock or oxygen sensors if and when a problem arises. Ultimately, refer to your manufacturer’s repair book for guidelines as to when to perform maintenance. The key to extending your vehicle’s life is in doing the maintenance when needed to head off costly repair bills. Otherwise you will be neglecting your car to the point where it “dies” prematurely. You can extend the life of your vehicle. If you aren’t up to the task, hire a qualified mechanic to service your vehicle regularly.

Read More

Truck Drivers! Get in Touch with New Technologies on the Road!!!

Working on the road can be a very difficult task. Office jobs offer employees many advantages that most of the time are taken for granted: internet access, phone lines, copy machines, faxes, paper, pens, even the desk!!! After a few days away from home, you find out how difficult the job conditions are over the road and you start to notice those small details. All Truck Drivers and especially Long Haul Truck Drivers face this fact evertday. Fortunately, today the world is growing smaller and technology increases minute by minute allowing many people to reap the benefits of it. Truck drivers are no exception. Many technological advances have imporved their quality of life. A few years ago, no one would have thought that a truck driver would ever implement the use of the internet in his day to day job. Electronic devices such as computers, palms, cell phones, billing devices and more are all available now to increase the effeciency of today's transportation services and their employee's. Professional Drivers benifit just as much from these communication advances as the companies they work for. The Internet is a great tool to improve our levels of communication, allowing drivers to have access to information at the exect time and place they need it. Today Truckers are able to send and receive email and faxes, order parts and find loads on the Web for their return trips. Different companies offer wireless connections to the internet in digital and analog cellular coverage areas by connecting a laptop to a cell phone. Obviously, the advantage here is that those services are easy to use and count on wide geographic coverage. Also, truck drivers can count on portable navigation soft wares or GPS, which can be accessed through cell phones, palms or laptops. These devices feature wireless connectivity and a customizable display, which enable more effective routing and handles detours, distractions and delays safely and efficiently. In common words, the driver can manage to locate where he is on an electronic map that will also help him to find addresses and short the time it takes to get there. Moreover, GPS not only helps the driver but guarantees his safety while on the road. These are low cost GPS software that operate from the vehicles battery power and transmit its location report to the company. Once the unit is installed, the vehicle operator basically can forget about it. There is no driver interaction required or even possible. Besides location and time, the only event the unit monitors is whether the ignition key is turned on or off. This tracking system makes the trip safer for the driver, the clients and the company. The above mentioned are just three electronic implementations that are very useful for the daily job of truck drivers. The industry also makes good use of special electronic billing devices that, after punching in some information, automatically dispatch the bill specifying the type of transaction made; which allows the driver to have a formal document to present to his foreman. Obviously, for these devices to be implemented, the will and desire to learn is crucial. Most of these implementations are important on a personal and business level because people can keep in contact with their freight, families and friends. In general, technology as a whole goes hand in hand with the growth of the Trucking Industry. In todays world and as days go by, Technology will play a major role in every marketplace in the years to come.

Read More

The Slow Drags On The Road

Punctuality matters. Every dedicated person wants to arrive at school, at work or any appointment right on time. This is a fast-paced world and we need to move hastily in order to meet the pressures of time. We value time but how are we sure that all people cooperate? There are some slow-drivers on the road and most of the times; you just find your self yelling at one of them. It is really so blood-raising if you are beating the time and then you just get stuck at the back of a slow vehicle. How could you ignore such situation? Busy streets will not allow you to sort out the good and the not-so good drivers. Identifying the “slow driver” is so difficult. Of course, we cannot judge people. Do not lose hope, there is a newly-discovered way and that is: through identifying the car. There is a current study which shows that there are really slow cars by nature! With this, you will be able to ignore being trapped on the back of any of these. Yes, it is true and we have the top ten slow drags on the road: Occupying the tenth spot for the slowest car is the CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY. It is a minivan which was started to be produced last 1990.It was marketed by DaimlerChrysler. Though it has been one of the best-sellers in the US when it comes to minivans, it is still one of the slow drags on the road. The ninth slowest is the BUICK CENTURY. Buick Century was a model name used by the Buick division of General Motors for a line of full-size performance vehicles from 1936 to 1942 and 1954 to 1958; Buick also used the Century name from 1973 to 2004 for its value-added mid-size cars. FORD AEROSTAR comes next as the 8th slowest. It is described as “box with wheel”. It is the model which represents Ford’s effort to make a minivan model. It was introduced in summer of 1985. As described, it will be a huge blockade on your way. Moving slow on the seventh spot is the CADILLAC DEVILLE. It is manufactured by General Motors and was first produced in 1949-2005. In 2006, it is not the Cadillac flagship sedan because DTS takes it place. Whatever it is, it is one of the ten slowest cars. The sixth is FORD AND CHEVVY CONVERSION VANS. This is only true for old models. A small car may seem fast. This is false for GEO METRO for it is the fourth slowest auto. It first appeared in Chevrolet-Geo showrooms in 1989.The Metro was a replacement for the Chevrolet Sprint features. The Sprint was also a rebadged Suzuki Forsa. NISSAN SENTRA hits the third place. Old sentras are really – slow. It is a compact made by Nissan. Generally, it is a rebadged export version of the Japanese Nissan Sunny. In Japan, it is known as Bluebird Sylphy and I some Asian countries Nissan Pulsar. A 5-mile per hour electronically is really a slow performance. That makes TOYOTA COROLLA as a car to be ignored. Yes, older models of Toyota Corolla.It is a compact car produced by Toyota of Japan, known worldwide for its reliability, conventional engineering and low fuel consumption. In 1997, the Corolla became the best selling nameplate in the world. Toyota has made 30 million cars under the Corolla name since its launch in 1966, making it the best selling car of all time. By far, the slowest one and must must be ignored is the TOYOTA CAMRY. Be it old or new, it is indeed slow. It is a mid-size car manufactured by Toyota in USA, as well as Australia, and Japan. The Camry has been the best selling car, in the United States, for eight of the last nine years starting in 1997. That makes US streets move in a slow mode. Upon knowing this list, be more cautious. For those who have this car models, our apologies. For those who are planning to buy one, think more. For those who see one tightly in front of their car, try not to be trapped.

Read More

SUVs vs. Minivans: Making The Right Choice

Has your family started to cram into the old sedan like a pack of sardines? Have members of the neighborhood car pool begun to look suspiciously at your battered station wagon? Perhaps it’s time to retire the old family car and move up to a bigger vehicle. Often, the choice for a more spacious family vehicle is a toss-up between a sport utility vehicle (SUV) and a minivan. Both offer flexible passenger and cargo areas, comfortable seating for five to eight persons, and rear-seat entertainment systems. Although the SUV has a slightly higher risk for rollovers than minivans do, both are equipped with similar safety features, such as air bags and anti-lock brake systems. So, which one deserves to park in your family garage? To come up with the right choice, you need to look at how the vehicle’s styling, fuel economy, passenger and cargo space, towing capacity, and safety will suit your family’s needs and lifestyle. Styling More than a matter of need, a vehicle’s styling is a matter of personal preference. The SUV usually wins out over the minivan when it comes to appearance. With its rugged, sporty styling, an SUV oozes urban cool, unlike the minivan, which is perpetually associated with soccer moms and suburban neighborhood carpools. Most men would recoil at the thought of driving a minivan, so if your husband would be sharing driving duties, you might have to talk it out with him. Likewise, many teenagers wouldn’t be caught dead stepping out of a minivan, so if you’d be using the vehicle mainly to drop off and pick up your adolescent children from school, you’d have to consider their preferences, too. Fuel economy Minivans give better mileage than SUVs, which have a reputation for being gas guzzlers. If you want to squeeze more miles out of the gasoline tank, then a minivan would make a more economic choice than an SUV. Other ownership costs, such as maintenance and insurance, also tend to be higher for SUVs than minivans. Unless you’re willing to pay the price for being cool and stylish, the practical minivan is the way to go. Passenger and cargo space Sport utility vehicles and minivans have comparable passenger and cargo space, but the roomy interiors of a minivan can be a delight to young kids. Unlike SUVs, minivans also have a low step-in height, so they’re easier for kids to climb into. Minivans’ large picture windows afford young passengers a better view of the passing scenery, therefore keeping your impatient young ones amused for a good part of the ride. Towing capacity If you own a boat and like to take the entire brood for weekend sailing retreats, then an SUV would make an appropriate choice. SUVs have superior towing capacities, enabling them to pull practically anything between a trailer and a small boat. Otherwise, if you’re only schlepping groceries and your kid’s soccer team, then there’s no reason to overlook the minivan. Safety Although both have comparable safety features, SUVs have a higher rollover risk than minivans. SUV devotees counter this by pointing out that rollovers account for only three percent of all traffic accidents and claiming that SUVs offer excellent passenger protection in two-car collisions. It remains to be seen whether this supposed collision safety factor outweighs the risk of rollovers. If the threat of rollover accidents keeps you awake at night, then a minivan could give you a little peace of mind.

Read More

Limousine Services

There are all types of limousines such as Lincolns, Cadillac’s, Fords, Mercedes, etc. The list goes on to what types of cars there are. Limousines come in all sizes from town cars to SUV’s and can seat 1 passenger to 26 passengers. Some limousines such as the basic Lincoln Town Car can just be a typical car. There are ways to jazz up the usual town car by renting a Mercedes-Benz or a non-stretch Hummer. These are all your typical cars on the inside and outside for that simple look, but different enough that it is not just a Sedan. Then there is also the Lincoln stretch that comes in all sizes from 6-14 depending on the size of the party. There are also the big SUV vehicles when there is a big group of people needing to entertain. Amenities in vehicles depend on the type of vehicles rented. Traditional Lincoln stretch limousines come standard with an LCD TV, DVD player, starlight ceiling and digital overhead control panel with automatic climate control. The larger vehicles such as the SUV’s can range with what type of equipment is in each vehicle. The Lincoln Navigator has the basic equipment that the Lincoln stretch limousines have as well. The Ford Excursion stretch come standard with black leather interior, plasma TV screens, twinkle light on the ceilings, DVD/CD players, and a high-end surround sound system. The Hummer stretch come standard with zebra print interior, plasma TV screens, stainless steel ceilings, a one-piece windows on each side of the vehicle, lasers, rims, a fog machine, a CD/DVD players, Play Station II, and a high-end surround sound system. The entire fleet of stretch limousine and SUV’s all come fully stocked with a complimentary wet bar which includes sodas, water, ice and stocked liquor. All the vehicles also come with English speaking professionally suited drivers who are licensed and insured. Limousines are used for all types of occasions from birthday to school dances to weddings to bachelor/bacheloretter parties. Limousines are great to have for Sweet 16 parties, Quincenieras, Bar Mitzvah’s, concerts, anniversaries, or just a night on the town. Limousines can seat as many people as you need to but also decide on the type of occasion. If the occasion were to be a wedding and the limousine was for the bride and the bridesmaids, the brides dress should be added as an extra person or two. People in formal attire need to be aware that there is to be enough room for everyone to ensure that no one’s formal attire can ruin and destroy the evening. Some occasions as proms kids do not mind having to sit on each others laps, as long as they can all fit as many kids on a tight budget in their limo. When planning a corporate affair, each client needs enough room to move around and give them space. When paying for the limousine a fair price is always better than the cheapest deal available. Booking a limousine too cheap increase the risks of a limousine not showing upor having them call and say they got into an accident or got stuck in Vegas. Some companies may not even call at all or say this reservation must have been booked with someone else. Limousine prices should be very fair and comparable for the types of vehicles and customer service they offer. Hidden fees, surcharges, or taxes should not be added to the price of a limousine. A limousine company that has a flat rate and gives the option to tip based on your satisfaction is a more professional company. Just as dining at a restaurant the server gets tipped at the end of the evening based on how satisfying the service was, a limousine driver should get tipped this way as well.

Read More

Your Essential Guide To Auto Transport & Vehicle Moving

Have you ever bought a car in one state and needed shipped just on the other side of the country? Or maybe, have your car sent to your ex-wife, who happens to live in Canada? Or, why not, bought your car on-line, from San Francisco and need it in New York? I’m sure that, if this hasn’t happened yet, it will probably happen sooner or later. So here are a few tips in transporting your car within USA, or between USA and Canada, no matter the distance. Scheduling Bearing in mind that the whole process can take quite a while, especially on long distances, schedule your auto shipping at least 4 weeks before you move, giving enough time to arrange for a car mover carrier to pick up your vehicle. Basically, the more advance time the better. If you are not available, you should arrange an alternative authorized party such as neighbor, friend or relative you can trust to transfer the car to the car mover. Most automobile shippers offer door-to-door service. The cost When working with a Car Mover, confirm what the total cost of the shipping will be. As you obtain quotes from several car transport and auto shipping companies (some links included lower), be prepared to provide: ·Origination/destination; ·Approximate departure date; ·Type of vehicle(s); ·Type of car transport service desired (e.g. door-to-door car transport vs. terminal-to-terminal); ·Special car mover or auto shipping requests (e.g. deliver at a location other than your home vs. at your home). Payment method While some car transport and auto drive-away companies may not require payment in advance, others require a deposit (10-25% of the total cost), or full payment in advance. If a deposit is given, amount due is always required at time of delivery – oftentimes with a cashiers check or cash. Sometimes a surcharge of 2-3% is required when using a credit card with a car transport or auto drive-away company. Licenses The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration must license auto shippers, transporters with a valid MC# or US DOT#. Insurance The car Transport Company or auto drive-away should insure your vehicle against damage and theft. ASK FOR A COPY OF INSURANCE COVERAGE. Ask if the carrier's insurance is PRIMARY or SECONDARY to your own insurance in the event of damage during car transport. Also, ask if there is damage deductible – VERIFY ALL IN WRITING. In addition, your own car insurance may cover your vehicle in transit – check with your car insurance company to verify. Inspect your car before shipping It is advisable that in addition to receiving a condition report document from your car mover detailing any pre-existing damage to your car, that you take photographs of the car, date the photos, and attach them to the condition report provided by the car mover for your records. You must have a detailed description of the condition of your car prior to shipping. The condition report or other document used by the car mover should include current mileage, pre-existing damage of any type including as glass, scratches, paint, dents, and so on. This report is important in case any disputes arise. Accepting your vehicle for delivery At the time of delivery, inspect your vehicle SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY and compare the condition and mileage against the "Original Inspection Report" provided by your car transport company at origination (ALSO INSPECT THE ROOF AND UNDER FRONT AND REAR BUMPERS). If there are inconsistencies, note them as exceptions and be sure the driver signs it. NEVER ACCEPT YOUR VEHICLE AT NIGHT IF YOU CANNOT VERIFY ITS CONDITION – without being viewed and signed by the driver, you have little recourse if damage had occurred during transit. Unresolved Disputes Always try to work out your dispute with the car mover or auto shipping company first. They often work on a referral basis and are motivated to working out problems. However, if you feel you have reached a dead end or that you have not been treated reasonably, you have the option of filing complaints with multiple agencies (BBB, State and or Federal Department Of Transportation, Interstate Commerce Commission) as well as seeking legal counsel. As I hope everything will turn out all right with your delivery, I’m giving a few links to some major auto-transportation companies. There you should find responses that are more comprehensive to your questions and to the money and work involved in shipping your car from one place to another. www.carmoves.com -A AAAdvantage Auto Transporters (800) 233-4875 www.dasautoshippers.com -Dependable Auto Shippers (800) 763-4165 www.afldir.com -A Florida Direct Auto Transport (888) 432-4708 www.btransport.com -B&T Auto Transport (866) 849-3700

Read More

Skoda - Objective Reviews From A Skoda Driver

Skoda cars have an excellent reputation for producing quality cars at a fair price. In Ireland Skodas are a very popular car for business users and family drivers alike. Gone are the days of the Skoda jokes, where Skoda was classed with Lada and Polski Fiat. Skoda is now part of the Volkswagen group and the cars are well designed and look great. There are only three basic models, Fabia, Octavia and Superb. The models have been designed to fit in between the conventional size classes, for example the Fabia is between a Fiesta and a Focus in size. The engines are quiet, but provide all the power that 99% of motorists ever need. Inside the cars are spacious and comfortable, with a high driver satisfaction rating. The diesel engined Skoda Octavia has brilliant fuel economy at around 700 miles/1100 kilometres a tank full and it's still a decent performer too. Rear legroom isn't brilliant, compensation for a big boot, but plenty big enough for a family and occasional adults As for handling the Skoda Octavia beats the equivalent Volkswagens due to it's stiffer and better ride that's needed for rough Czech (and Irish)roads compared to the smooth German ones of Volkswagen. Comfortable on long distances, but the road noise level is noticeable. The Skoda Octavia Estate car just goes on and on. The loading platform seems endless. This estate car is also one of the most pleasant to drive that I have ever come across The New Octavia car is even better value than the older model. The differences on the outside are subtle, but inside is different story, with redesigned seats and instrument panel. You know you are in a different Skoda Octavia. The Skoda Fabia is quiet at all speeds. Great steering, brakes, and taut body control. Amazingly frugal engine keeps getting better as it matures, averaging over 65mpg on daily country commutes. Beautiful Skoda gearbox with very smooth changes. Skoda's super efficient air-con does not affect the Fabia's performance or fuel consumption. Heated seats are perfect for winter. Rock solid construction enhances passenger safety. I think that the skoda diesel engine is the perfect partner for this car as the fuel economy even in town is in the high 50's and the torque is amazing in this small car making it seriously quick, surprising a few Fiesta and Corsa drivers! The Skoda Fabia is a real Pocket Rocket! The steering is brilliant - very light when you need it in parking spaces, but it weight's up nicely when out on the open road. The Skoda Fabia estate is an amazing package of space and economy. The 1.2 16v engine delivers far more power than any small estate car driver has the right to expect Seats appear to be too uncomfortable at the start as they are very hard, but they soften up and become very comfortable after 10 minutes and you appreciate this in a long drive and it is far better than it's rivals! The ride is wonderful! Very supple for long distance cruising and a great handler. Amazing! Loaded with kit for the money and you'll save money with it's excellent fuel economy. Nowhere else will you find a value for money car like the Skoda Superb. The Superb has features that are generally only found in cars costing half as much again. A test drive in the Skoda Superb is a totally different world from a test drive in the very competent Skoda Octavia. The two cars may look very similar outside, but inside and for driving pleasure the Superb wins hands down. The Skoda Superb really does live up to its name. It is superb in every way - good handling, excellent drive, full of features such as tip-tronic transmission and electric seat c/w memory, spacious cabin, comfortable ride and powerful engine (turbo). The boot is cavernous! Its actual rear leg-room is even larger than a Mercedes E class. The top of the range Skoda Superb is a very high quality, well put together and extremely spacious, luxury family car. Great engine, smooth auto gearbox, wonderful overtaking ability, relaxed cruising and very economical. Coupled with great features and reasonable price, the Skoda Superb really is value-for-money. It's money well spent!

Read More

Traffic School Goes High Tech

For most people, time is their most precious commodity. In fact, there's often never enough time in the day to get everything done and people face packed schedules from the time they wake up in the morning until the time they go to bed. Sometimes, however, the unexpected happens: like getting a traffic ticket. Getting a traffic ticket means one of two things: having that black mark placed on your driving record or completing to keep your record clean. Keeping your record clean once meant having to attend walk-in traffic school: eight full hours, usually on a Saturday, watching videos and listening to an instructor. For lucky students, the instructor is charismatic and makes the afternoon more bearable. Some walk-in traffic schools try to entice drivers to their schools with promises of pizza and comedy. But, even for the promise of a couple of slices of pizza and a few laughs, drivers just aren’t willing to sacrifice their days. Fortunately, drivers have an alternative to traditional walk-in traffic school: one that will keep their driving record clean and spare them a wasted day. More and more drivers – hit with traffic violations – are turning to online traffic school or online defensive driving courses, a burgeoning industry that is poised to one day make walk-in traffic schools a thing of the past. It's a simple process: register for online traffic school, pay the fee and get started. Many drivers can finish the course in between four and six hours, sometimes less with many schools even offering students the ability to start and stop the course at their leisure. Online traffic school offers convenience – something those strapped for time so desperately need. Ellen Koka, a mother of two, simply had no time to waste in a traditional walk-in traffic school setting so she turned to an online traffic school as the only alternative. She was able to finish her course in only a few hours while her children were on a playdate. "Online, traffic school was the best way to get my traffic school requirements done," she says. Earl Jamison also knows all too well how hectic life can be. A father of two with a full-time job, Jamison had already sat through two walk-in traffic courses when he was hit with another traffic ticket. This time, however, he was no longer willing or able to spend eight hours in a classroom. So, he turned to the internet. “The fact that I could take traffic school whenever I wanted was just too convenient to pass up,” he says. “The advantages are obvious: convenient, inexpensive and being able to log in and out whenever I had the time was awesome,” Jamison continues, “I would even go as far as to say that I learned much more from this than I ever learned in any traffic school classroom course I'd taken in the past.” Jamison, who vows he’ll turn to online traffic school in the future, isn’t the only one who's enjoyed success with online traffic school. Cal Spinney turned to online traffic school when he was hit with a traffic violation. “For my personal style of learning and working, the online flexibility and freedom trumps any advantages that might be offered in a rigid and structured classroom environment,” he says. Online traffic school also tends to offer updated material compared to that offered at traditional walk-in traffic schools. For example, many schools such as TicketRelief.com updates its material annually, to ensure clarity and effectiveness. Mike P. Welch understands the importance of updated material. He attended traditional walk-in traffic school, only to find that much of the material was outdated. “The instructor had us watch a video that was from the 1970's and a big segment was on call boxes, which I felt was irrelevant, considering the majority of the population now has cell phones,” Welch says. Welch, too, vows to use online traffic school should the need arise. It's plain to see that online traffic schools will continue to grow in future years to come. Especially as our lives are becoming increasingly busier and the internet is now more and more common place in nearly every household across the globe.

Read More

Why Are You Buying That Car?

Before buying a car – new or used – you should ask yourself why exactly do you need a car. Other than the obvious reason of having convenient transportation, are there any other pressing reasons for buying a car? You should try to identify the reasons for buying a car and justifying if they are indeed valid reasons. Perhaps it is a necessity like requiring inexpensive transportation to and from work. Or, maybe you are a work at home mom or dad and need a vehicle to haul children around to school and various other activities. Regardless of your reasons, make certain that purchasing the car is for a valid purpose and not just because you want to outdo your neighbors. The following are basic questions and reasons you should consider when making that all important car purchase: How They Treat You - Though not always true, when buying cars, you could get many ideas just by observing how car sales people deal with you. Usually, these non-verbal signals are fairly correct enough enabling you to know what to expect from your car purchase. Is The Price Right? - The best time period to buy that car you have always dreamed of having is later in the month. Usually, there are numerous rebate programs and bonus offered by month’s end based on a dealer’s monthly sales quotas. The idea is that, sometimes dealers fall short of meeting their sales objectives. If their performance is assessed by the end of the month this can prove to be good news to most car buyers since dealers now have no choice but to sell vehicles at a price that is lower than their norm. They are pressed to make more sales that will count for their monthly sales and that puts you at an advantage as a buyer. Peace of Mind - Sometimes dealers do a song and dance routine just to make that sale. The result is that often car buyers end up with car features they realize later on they do not really need and a price they actually could not afford. You can avoid this potential stress by always remembering to trust your instincts. If ever you feel in doubt, do not let yourself be pressured to making that purchase now. Is The Dealership Trustworthy? - If at any time you feel that the person selling you the car is not trustworthy or simply do not like him or her, always remember that you have the option to leave. You are always free to politely walk away, anytime, anywhere, and in any way you like it. But if there are not many car dealers in your area, you may want to linger for a few moments more and wait until the negotiations you have with your dealer breaks down and you simply have no option but to run off. The Invoice Price - Another thing to consider when buying a car is the invoice price. Make sure to ask that you see the invoice. If dealers are working their tails off against it, you have enough reason to believe that the car being offered is an unpleasant deal. Usually, the price on the invoice is the cost the dealer paid the manufacturer for buying the car. This is before any rebates or incentives were included. Once this is known, only then will you have an idea as to how much the dealer could profit from each vehicle sold. Incentives - There are instances when manufacturers provide the dealers with a little something extra, like money, rebates or a bonus because they are able to sell cars that are either overstocked or undersold. Make sure that before actually purchasing a car, you were able to know if that car you are buying has some dealer incentives attached to it. If so, take off that amount from the car’s purchase price and have yourself a very good deal and hopefully, a very good car as well. Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price - This is commonly called the sticker price. This is the price one usually sees in the window of the car that is being sold. Never ever consider paying the amount stated on the sticker price. This amount is just the starting point to your negotiations with the dealer. Finally, do not forget that you should always sleep on it and then decide. This is a lot better than making your mind up now and forever holding your peace!

Read More