Torque Converter Operation

The torque converter is one of the least understood components in an automatic transmission equipped vehicle. I will attempt to explain what it does and how it does it. The torque converter has a few different functions. We first need to understand that there is no direct link between the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft (except in the case of a lock up style converter, but we'll talk about that later). This means that the first function of the converter is to connect the crankshaft and the input shaft so the engine can move the vehicle; this is accomplished through the utilization of a fluidic coupling effect. The torque converter also replaces the clutch that is required in a manual transmission; this is how an automatic transmission vehicle can come to a stop while still being in gear without stalling the engine. The torque converter also acts as a torque multiplier, or extra gear ratio, to help the car get moving from a stop. In modern day converters this theoretical ratio is anywhere between 2:1 and 3:1. Torque converters consist of 4 major components that we need to concern ourselves with for the purpose of explanation. The first component, which is the driving member, is called the impeller or "pump". It is connected directly to the inside of the converter housing and because the converter is bolted to the flexplate, it is turning anytime that the engine rotates. The next component, which is the output or driven member, is called the turbine. The transmission's input shaft is splined to it. The turbine is not physically connected to the to the converter housing and can rotate completely independently of it. The third component is the stator assembly; its function is to redirect the flow of fluid between the impeller and the turbine, which gives the torque multiplication effect from a standstill. The final component is the lock up clutch. At highway speeds this clutch can be applied and will provide a direct mechanical link between the crankshaft and input shaft, which will result in 100% efficiency between the engine and transmission. The application of this clutch is usually controlled by the vehicle's computer activating a solenoid in the transmission. Here's how it all works. For the sake of simplicity, I will use the common analogy of two fans which represent the impeller and the turbine. Let's say that we have two fans facing each other and we turn only one of them on- the other fan will soon begin to move. The first fan, which is powered, can be thought of as the impeller that is connected to the converter housing. The second fan- the "driven" fan can be likened to the turbine, which has the input shaft splined to it. If you were to hold the non-powered fan (the turbine) the powered one (the impeller) would still be able to move- this explains how you can pull to a stop without the engine stalling. Now imagine a third component placed in between the two, which would serve to alter the airflow and cause the powered fan to be able to drive the non-powered fan with a reduction of speed- but also with an increase of force (torque). This is essentially what the stator does. At a certain point (usually around 30-40 mph), the same speed can be reached between impeller and the turbine (our two fans). The stator, which is attached to a one way clutch, will now begin to turn in conjunction with the other two components and around 90% efficiency between the crank and the input shaft can be achieved. The remaining 10% slippage between the engine and transmission can be eliminated by connecting the input shaft to the crankshaft through the application of the lock up clutch that was mentioned before. This will tend to lug the engine, so the computer will only command this in higher gears and at highway speeds when there is very little engine load present. The main function of this clutch is to increase fuel efficiency and reduce the amount of heat that is generated by the torque converter. Another term that may be unfamiliar is that of a "high stall" torque converter. A high stall converter differs from a stock converter in the sense that the rpm is raised at which the internal converter components- the impeller, the stator and the turbine start to turn together, and hence, stop the torque multiplication phase and begin the coupling phase. The point at which engine rpm will stop climbing with the drive wheels held stationary and the throttle fully opened is referred to as "stall speed". The idea behind a higher stall torque converter is to allow the engine to rev more freely up to the point where the powerband begins, and therefore, enable the vehicle to accelerate from a stop under more power. This becomes increasingly important when an engine is modified. Engine modifications such as ported heads, bigger cams, bigger turbos (in some cases), bigger intakes, etc. tend to raise the point where the powerband begins. For best performance, the stall speed needs to be raised accordingly to work optimally in conjunction with the given vehicle alterations. In simple terms, for best performance, the stall speed should be raised at least to the point where the torque curve is heading towards its peak. As a rule of thumb, the stall speed should be set to match the rpm at which the engine is making at least 80% of its peak torque for a street driven vehicle. As you can imagine, a vehicle that can accelerate from a stop with 80% of its peak torque will easily outperform an otherwise identical vehicle that can only launch at 50% of its available torque. For a performance or "high stall" torque converter to produce maximum gains, it needs to be configured to the specific vehicle in which it will be installed. Factors such as engine torque and the rpm at which it is greatest, differential gear ratio, vehicle weight, camshaft design, compression ratio, type of induction- forced or naturally aspirated, and a host of other variables all need to be taken into consideration. Be aware that the "off the shelf" type performance torque converters sold by some manufacturers are very unlikely to be optimized for all vehicles and their unique requirements.

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Tips For Keeping Up With Automotive Recalls

You hear about automotive recalls all the time in the newspaper, on the Internet, as well as on the nightly news. Amazingly, one in 12 cars traveling the roads today were recalled for one reason or another in 2003. However, even more amazing is the fact that only one third of the owners of the recalled vehicles chose to take their car in for the needed repairs. The car manufacturers are required to send out letters informing owners of these vehicles of the recall, regardless of whether it is a major or minor event. Also, the information regarding the recall is delivered to consumers in so many different mediums it is almost impossible that owners of the affected vehicles do not learn of the problems. However, people seem to think that if they are not experiencing any problems at the moment then the recall affects all of the other vehicles instead of theirs and end up ignoring the recall. This is negligence and simply asking for the problem with the car to crop up. However, if this happens after the recall then it is the owners fault because they were given the information and allowed to fix the problem free of charge yet they simply ignored it. As long as car manufactures report the recall and inform owners of the vehicles as they are required to do by law, it is up to the consumer to take advantage of the recall and have their automobile fixed. If not, then the owner is taking the risk. If you have not heard anything about car recalls or just bought a used vehicle and want to find out if the manufacturer issued any recalls then you should check out www.nhtsa.gov or www.autorecalls.org to see if your car is listed. Both of these websites have all the information about recalls over the past years so you can search through the year, make, and model of a vehicle to see if yours is listed. It is very likely you will see your car listed on one of these website because more than 31 million cars were recalled in 2004. That is almost unbelievable considering the amount of technology used in developing cars as well as the fact that cars are safer than they have ever been. However, it is true that mistakes are still taking places and consumers are buying vehicles with basic problems like fuses or major problems with gas lines, tires, and seats buckling in crashes. Regardless of whether or not you believe you are driving a safe car you need to check out the websites stated above every few months just to make sure your vehicle has not ended up on the list. If it has, don’t fall into the two thirds of individuals who never respond to the recall. Instead, head to the nearest dealership or authorized mechanic who can make the free repairs to your vehicle. Why so many people don’t have time for free repairs is beyond me, but knowing your vehicle has a problem that could be potentially fatal for you and your family and that a free repair is available should be enough to motivate you to have the repair taken care of. Another thing to keep in mind is that simple problems with your vehicle that result in a visit to the mechanic may not be a problem you are required to pay for. Millions of Americans each year take their cars to the mechanic for a basic repair, or even a major one, assuming something went wrong and they simply need to fix it. Unfortunately, many of these individuals never check to see if the problem was due to a recall and end up paying for a repair that might be free or discounted by the automobile manufacturer. So, armed with this knowledge the next time your vehicle has even the slightest problem make sure you check and see if the car has been recalled for similar problems and if you can get free repairs or discounted ones at the least. It is certainly worth checking out and could save you hundreds or even thousands of dollars. Who Issues Recalls? In general, the reason so many people don’t respond to recalls is because they simply don’t understand the recall process. The NHTSA , National Highway and Traffic Safety Administration, is responsible for investigating consumer complaints regarding specific vehicles and problems associated with them. After several consumers have reported the same or similar problem to the NHTSA for the same model vehicle an investigation is launched. The point of the NHTSA investigation is to determine whether the consumer caused the problem or malfunction in some way or if the manufacturer of the vehicle is at fault. If the manufacturer is determined to be at fault then the owners of affected models will receive information in the mail regarding the recall of the vehicle with information included on how they can have the problem corrected free of charge. However, the NHTSA is not always the one who issues a recall. Occasionally, the manufacturer realizes a problem exists in a certain model vehicle and will voluntarily issue a recall. Of course, the NHTSA is informed as well, and the same letter is sent to owners of the vehicle letting them know the problem with the vehicle and how to correct it. Many times, however, a recall does not affect all models of a particular year. For example, if a recall is issued on 2005 Ford Explorers more than likely it will only affect a certain batch of these vehicles and not all of them. However, if you own a vehicle of that make and year then you can take it to the dealership and the service department will run the VIN, or vehicle identification number, to determine if in fact your vehicle is affected by the recall. If so, then you can have the repairs made at no cost. If not, then you can head home knowing your vehicle is safe and sound. Just keep in mind, however, each year millions of cars are recalled for various reasons and you should always take your car in if you suspect the recall might apply to your vehicle or if you receive a recall letter. Don’t take your safety for granted, especially if the repair for the recalled vehicle is free.

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Tips To Avoid Car Insurance Premium Increases & Becoming Assigned Risk

Below are some tips to reduce your auto insurance bill, prevent substantial premium increases and avoid becoming assigned risk. Claim Reports: You know about credit reports, you should also know about claim reports. C.L.U.E.® (Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange), is a claim report service provided by ChoicePoint, Inc. ChoicePoint, Inc. states on their web site "C.L.U.E. is a claim history information exchange that enables insurance companies to access prior claim information in the underwriting and rating process. C.L.U.E. Personal Property reports contain up to five years of personal property claims matching the search criteria submitted by the inquiring insurance company. Data provided in C.L.U.E. reports includes policy information such as name, date of birth and policy number, and claim information such as date of loss, type of loss and amounts paid." Tip: C.L.U.E. reports contain information on claims history by a residence address. Just like credit reports, a C.L.U.E. report may have errors. It is advisable to obtain a copy of your C.L.U.E. report at ChoiceTrust.com to check your report for errors. Credit reports: Insurance companies are now looking at credit reports to determine future premiums. They have determined that people with better credit scores have fewer claims. Consequently, if you have a poor credit report you may find yourself paying more for car insurance. Tip: Always make at least the minimum payment for your bills on time, particularly your insurance bill. Glass Coverage: Most auto insurance salespeople recommend "full" glass coverage for an additional premium, when you purchase collision coverage for your car. They remind you how much it costs to replace all your windows if broken by a vandal. What they do not tell you, and it is unlikely that they would even know (I would only trust the answer from an underwriter, not a sales representative), is whether your insurance company will use a previous glass claim to increase your future premium and whether they will report your glass claims to C.L.U.E. Some insurance companies will report glass claims to C.L.U.E. and then use these claims to raise your premium or even worse, cancel your car insurance policy making you assigned risk with a substantial premium increase. Allstate notified me that after four claims in less than five years, they terminated my auto insurance policy and then offered to sell me coverage in their Indemnity Company with a shocking premium increase. These claims consisted of two claims for a broken windshield, one for a stolen and recovered car and one accident. I had a sports car and had to endure a total premium increase over a period of four years of approximately $12,000 and remain claim free before I became eligible for coverage outside of the assigned risk pool. I wrote a letter to the president of Allstate complaining that they should not have considered my glass claims when canceling my car insurance because the glass claims were made under a separate part of the policy for which I paid a separate and additional premium. Allstate responded in a letter stating "Although this claim activity does not indicate that you were directly at fault in each loss, the frequency and severity of the above losses was not within our range of acceptability. After careful review, I regret to inform you that we cannot reverse our original decision regarding the above policy. We have however continued to offer coverage in our Indemnity Company." Tip: Check with the underwriting department of your insurance company to see if they will consider glass claims when assessing premiums or if they report glass claims to C.L.U.E. If yes, do not make a glass claim. The two windshields which Allstate provided me with were aftermarket windshields which would have cost me less than $300 each. During the last 30 years of my driving history, I have experienced two broken front windshields, one broken rear windshield and two broken side windows. While the financial risk of totaling a car can be substantial, the financial risk of replacing a windshield is comparatively insignificant. It does not make sense to file a glass claim if it will increase your premium. You may even want to decline this coverage altogether and save the premium. Tip for leased vehicles: Some lease agreements require that the car be returned with an OEM windshield. If you lease a car and replace a front windshield using your "full" glass coverage, insist that the insurance company provide you with an OEM windshield from the manufacturer. If you pay for the windshield yourself, check your lease agreement carefully to see if you must use an OEM windshield from the manufacturer or if you can use an aftermarket windshield. Some people with leased cars who have replaced a windshield with an aftermarket windshield are shocked, when they return their car, to find that the leasing company is charging them $800 for a new OEM windshield, even though the aftermarket windshield is in perfect condition. Car Rental & Towing Coverage: While it may be a good idea to have this coverage, it is not always a good idea to use it. Some people have realized that this coverage is not just available when an accident has occurred. For instance, some people have used the car rental coverage when their car was in a repair shop or the towing coverage when their car broke down on the road. As with glass coverage, using this coverage may be the same as filing a claim. Tip: Check with the underwriting department of your insurance company to see if they will consider rental or towing claims when assessing premiums or if they report these claims to C.L.U.E. If yes, do not use car rental or towing coverage unless you have had an accident, in which case it will be part of the accident claim. If you are concerned about towing costs when your car breaks down, you can buy one of the roadside assistance memberships such as the one available from AAA which provides additional benefits not provided by your automobile insurance policy.

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Performance Chips feed your vehicle a heavy dose of power

Whether you want a performance chip that you can just plug in and forget about, or one that you can constantly tinker with to find your perfect settings, AutoAnything has the right electrical gear for you. We have three different styles of performance chips to choose from, each with their own unique characteristics and capabilities. However, for all their differences, the one thing they have in common is the power to propel your vehicle's performance to unbelievable heights. 3 fundamental types of performance chips Control Modules A control module plugs directly into your under-the-hood electrical system, standing right in between the data from your various sensors and the computer. The module intercepts the data before it has a chance to reach the onboard computer. Then, it analyses the information, determines the proper adjustments to the air/fuel ratio, ignition timing and other key functions, and then sends commands to the onboard computer. A control module delivers accurate, immediate tuning for your engine because it is always plugged in and constantly reading and interpreting data from your sensors. Each control module is custom-programmed to maximize the output and efficiency of your vehicle's specific year, make and model, taking into consideration engine size, transmission type and even your stock tire size. What's more, many control modules come in different power levels, or stages. That way, you can choose the perfect amount of power for your unique driving habits. Many of the control modules for diesel rigs have optional in-cab monitors that display up to the second readings of such critical engine information as turbo boost, engine gas temperature and RPMs. Some even display your 0-60 acceleration and quarter mile time, and give you on-the-fly control of different settings. For the best results, you will want to use a higher grade fuel with more octanes, like 91 or higher. Installing a control module is simple and should not take more than 15 minutes. They have a built-in, heat-shielded wiring harness that plugs directly into your onboard computer, so there's absolutely no soldering, splicing or drilling required. After all the wires are connected, you never have to worry about adjusting the module ever again, unless you would like to return to your factory settings. Power Programmers Like control modules, power programmers reconfigure your vehicle's onboard computer to perform at peak levels, but they operate differently. Rather than being permanently installed into your electrical system, power programmers are plug-n-play devices. Before hitting the road, you connect it to your OBD-II Port, which is handily located right under your dashboard. You will then answer a number of questions about your vehicle, any modifications you have made and what level of power you want. Based on how you respond to the questions, the power programmer then uploads a new set of operating instructions to your vehicle's computer. The new operating program only has to be uploaded once, so you can pack away your power programmer or experiment with some of the other settings and modes. Best of all, the whole process only takes about 10 minutes, and the only tools you'll need are your own two hands. The advantage of the power programmer is that you have greater control over the tuning of your system. For example, you will be able to recalibrate your onboard computer to any changes in tire size, speed rating or even your rear end gear ratio. These changes dramatically affect your vehicle's performance, but your computer does know to recalculate unless you use a power programmer to communicate with it. Moreover, many of our power programmers let you tune your engine for regular octane usage instead of the usual 91 or higher fuel grade. Engine Management Systems (EMS) If you want total control of your vehicle's computer system, don't just reprogram it-replace it. An EMS is a complete substitution for your stock onboard computer, giving you virtually unlimited command over just about ever aspect of your vehicle's control system. Engine management systems are designed to customize your car, truck, or SUV to your exact specifications. For those of us who know about the inner workings of your entire drive train, only an EMS gives you full control of every minute detail, from your air/fuel ratio and fuel injector control, to idle speed and nitrous (wet or dry) management. You mount the EMS inside your engine compartment. Once it is secured, you simply unplug the wires from your old computer and plug them into the new one. Those wires sync your EMS with all of your vehicle's sensors, so it has an immediate connection to all the data from every critical part on your automobile. It uses the readings from your sensors to run your engine at its peek level. You can even plug your laptop into the EMS to view performance information and manipulate settings. Application with your ride Sure, a control module, power programmer or EMS unleashes huge gains in horsepower, torque and efficiency, but you are probably wondering how it actually works. For most performance parts, their purpose is obvious-more power. You can visualize and hear a hotrod exhaust system hard at work, and you can hold the pipes and headers right in your hands. A performance chip, on the other hand, exists in the invisible world of electrical pulses and binary codes.

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video tubes pleasure

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The Quick Guide To Buying A Vehicle

Buying a car will most likely be one of the largest purchases you make in your life and so its importance cannot be understated. With such a huge array of vehicles to choose from, throughout the various price ranges, research will be the key to a successful purchase. When you are thinking about buying a car there is one important factor to appreciate – in financial terms nearly all vehicles are liabilities. That is they LOSE money and are an added burden to your finances – not only the initial purchase but also the insurance, gas costs, repairs and then the depreciation when you come to sell it. That said, they are also fast becoming an essential possession in the modern world – only major cities have comprehensive public transport systems, so to get around at your convenience there is only one option – buy a car. The first item to consider is the method of payment for the vehicle – buy to own or lease over a period of time. Either way you will need to calculate your budget to see what you can afford not only up front or monthly payments but also the following: 1. How reliable a make of car it is – are the parts expensive? 2. How long is the warranty period and how comprehensive is it? 3. How much does the insurance cost? 4. What are the service intervals and how much do they cost? 5. The economy of the vehicle compared with the type and distance of driving you normally do. 6. Style of vehicle – do you need a truck or SUV for local/inner city driving? How many passengers do you carry? 7. How long will you want to keep it? (Marriage, kids or relocation?) Don’t sign up for expensive 5 year financing if you only want to keep it for 12 months. 8. What is the MRP of the vehicle – always look for discount. 9. What is the resale value of the vehicle – is the depreciation high? Methods of Purchasing 1. Buy new – This is fast becoming a more affordable method of buying a car and you can either pay cash up front (if you’re lucky), arrange your own financing or take out the financing from the car dealer (if buying from a dealer). Most domestic manufacturers will offer either large discounts for cash payment or 0% financing over a period of up to 5 years. The imported vehicles (far eastern/European) are very popular and most don’t need to offer such large incentives for sales as the reliability and economy of their products are in high demand. There seems to be 2 major factors when choosing a new vehicle – price over quality. A Japanese / European imports have the quality but you will pay handsomely for it – a North American vehicle (GM, Ford, Chrysler/Dodge) definitely have the price and incentives so that will come down to personal choice. 2. Buy used – The most likely choice of many of us either through a private sale or a used car dealer. Many private transactions are completed due to reasonable pricing (agreed between the seller and purchaser) that is normally based upon the condition of the vehicle (any crashes or service history), the age, and fair market value. The main drawback is that these sales are completed “sold as seen” and there is very often little or no comeback should the vehicle subsequently fail shortly after the transfer of ownership. It is a necessity to have the vehicle history checked if you are committing to a private transaction. If the vehicle is stolen or has finance owing on it there is a very strong chance of it being repossessed should it be uncovered. These checks also show the last known mileage (prevents clock tampering) and also any reported collision damage (written off and then rebuilt) and for a small fee can save an awful lot of heartache and financial difficulties. If you buy from a reputable dealer you will pay more for the vehicle but will normally be able to trade in any old vehicle. Again you will not be paid too much for the trade in but not having to worry about the sale of the old vehicle may well offset that. You should also have a decent warranty with the vehicle you buy which may be the balance of the manufacturers warranty or up to 3 months from the dealer. If it is a dealer warranty, make sure you fully understand what is and more importantly isn’t covered – the small print must be read and understood. Depending upon the size of the dealership, you may be able to purchase an extended warranty, again check what is covered and for how long – you really don’t need any surprises when the problems arise. 3. Auctions are another method of purchasing which can save you a lot of cash if you are brave enough. You will have the chance to look over the vehicles prior to the auction and the auction company will usually run some background checks to avoid selling stolen cars. If you know what you are doing this can really be a cost effective way of buying a car but also probably the one with the highest risk. 4. Lease – This entails a down payment (normally) followed by a monthly payment which will be less than the financing of a new vehicle payment. This method isn’t everyone’s idea of monetary sense as you make payments but will never have any equity at the end of the lease term. The major benefits are that you will be able to have a new car every few years (usually before the warranty period expires) and simply give the vehicle back in exchange for the next new one. You will most likely have a pre agreed limit on mileage that will cost you extra should you surpass it and you will be liable for the servicing costs. Whether you are buying a car - new or used - never pay the “price” on show – these are heavily inflated and you should be able to negotiate a substantial discount. If not – go somewhere else – you are the customer that they should be bending over backwards to please. Do not be afraid to walk out on a dealership if you are unhappy with what’s on offer and definitely visit several different dealerships and play them off against each other to gain a favorable price. More detailed information on Buying a Car can be found at http://www.onestopimmigration-canada.com/buying_a_car.html

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Tips for customizing import tuners

So you’ve tacked a three-foot-high metal bar onto the back of your trunk, spent $200 on clear-colored taillights and another $600 on “VTEC” stickers, rented The Fast and the Furious three times, and you say your car still doesn’t go any faster? We’re just as baffled as you, but we have a few pointers that might help. 1. Even if the point is to build your own personal Import Tuner, it’s critical to start with a decent foundation. All the lowering, stiffening, and boosting doesn’t mean half as much on a car that can’t put it to good use, and there are plenty of cheap, good platforms out there. - What’s popular isn’t always best. Sure, you could become Slammed Honda Import Car Owner #16,384, and you’d be getting a reputable car with one of the world’s most tuner-friendly engines. You’d also have to live with marginal low-end torque (not as easy to upgrade as horsepower), and unless you dip back into the 1990s, wouldn’t be getting that car’s double-wishbone front suspension, one of the things that made it special. Like most cars, it’s also front-wheel-drive, capping a low glass ceiling on the usefulness of whatever extra power you squeeze out of that little engine. - Get a rear- or all-wheel-drive car if you plan to go fast. One set of wheels can only do so much, and overpowered front-drivers simply have lower handling skills all around, not to mention feeling slow-witted and less fun even when driven normally. And wouldn’t you like to give drifting a try? Some recent RWD cars that sold for less than $30,000: Mazda Miata, Toyota MR2, Ford Mustang, Nissan 350Z, Mazda RX-8, Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird. - Lighter is better. Mass is the enemy of all vehicle dynamics: acceleration, braking, roadholding, turning, etc. Starting light is its own reward, and makes every future mod count that much more. 2. Now for the upgrades themselves. - The single most beneficial: a turbocharger seen modified on japanese Import Cars. Assuming your first wish is to go faster (with the same engine), this exhaust gas-recycling device crams extra air into your engine at higher engine speeds, boosting output of both horsepower and torque. Superchargers achieve the same basic effect through less-efficient means (since it relies on the engine for power). - After fortifying your engine is the time to worry about intake and exhaust mods (better cams, headers, air filters, mufflers, etc.) High-performance / high-strung engines are better equipped to enjoy the benefits of better breathing. - As far as suspensions and lowering, feel free to go as hard as you can handle. But build properly, making sure your shocks are at least as aggressive as your springs, since the point of the former is to control the motion of the latter and you don’t want your suspension constantly hitting its bump stops. And don’t cut your springs! - Bigger wheels benefit handling, but there are drawbacks: harder ride, more unsprung mass, more work for your shocks, and lowered resistance to pothole damage. Depending on how much torque you have on tap, too much traction can also make it hard to provoke wheelspin during launches, damping some fun and delaying the acceleration process. As a rule of thumb, don’t fit a street car with any diameter past the teens, or with tires that have an aspect ratio of less than 40. - Speaking of tires, no one brand is best, and model lines change names all the time. Just stay away from low-performance all-season tires (anything with “M+S” stamped on it) and try to stay with tires with a speed rating of H (130 MPH) or higher. After H comes V, Z, and Y. Before H comes R, S, and T. Yes, it doesn’t make sense. - As far as brakes go, bigger rotors help, but also only to a point. Braking depends just as much on tire traction as the brakes themselves, and again, going bigger also adds more unsprung mass. Instead, focus on making bum brakes better, i.e. swapping from rear drums to discs (better heat resistance, pedal feel, and stopping ability), or swapping from solid discs to vented ones (better cooling). Brembo is the standard in aftermarket brake brands. - Fitting a new set of gears and/or a new final-drive ratio can boost torque and make your engine a little more responsive, at the cost of a little gas, more engine noise, and lowered top speeds (since you run into the redline earlier). - If all you want is more low-speed muscle (like many motorists), all the tiny engine tweaks in the world won’t help you. Power and torque are different (though related) commodities; what you need is a car with a bigger engine. - Unless you have a rear-drive car and drive at triple digits, stay away from spoilers. Specifically, stay away from wings – any high-flying bar that isn’t 100% attached to the body. At low/medium speeds, their main contribution is drag, and on front-wheel-drive cars, the rear downforce they add is actually counterproductive, causing even more understeer than usual. Spoilers (i.e. the attached-to-the-body kind that you might see on an old Lexus SC400 or V6 Pontiac Firebird), on the other hand, actually improve airflow and are slightly useful.

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